PRICE:
Frommer's Exceptional

This exquisite ryokan is as fine an example of a traditional inn as you'll find in Japan. Situated in the heart of old Kyoto, it offers the ultimate in Japanese-style living, with a very kind and accommodating staff that's helpful in initiating foreigners unfamiliar with Japan to the joys of a ryokan. Noteworthy former guests include princes of the Japanese royal family, Charlie Chaplin, and Pierre Cardin. If you're going to splurge just once in Japan, this is one of my top choices. Built in 1818 and an inn since 1861 -- Ms. Nishimura is the sixth-generation innkeeper -- Hiiragiya is a haven of simple design that makes artful use of wood, bamboo, screens, and stones in its spacious, traditionally arranged rooms. Even the remote controls for the lights and curtains are cleverly concealed in specially made lacquered boxes shaped like gourds (invented by the present owner's great-grandfather). Rooms, each one unique, are also outfitted with art and antiques such as gold-painted folding screens or lacquered bathrooms, and most offer garden views and cypress baths. Even the least expensive room -- a former tearoom only 4 1/2 tatami mats big, with a sink but no bathroom and a view of the garden -- is good enough for me. A recent addition added seven new but elegant rooms. Dinners are exquisite multicourse kaiseki feasts; Western-style breakfasts are available upon request.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Japan, 9th Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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