One&Only Palmilla

Mexico
Latin America

The Experience

When it first opened in 1956, Palmilla was reachable only by private plane. Over the following decades, it has remained the classic resort of Los Cabos, despite regional development that has seen newer five-star spots like Las Ventanas and Esperanza attempt to lure away its exclusive clientele. To maintain Palmilla’s pride of place, One & Only bought the property and spent $90 million on renovations and additions, reopening in 2004 with a big splash hosting John Travolta's 50th birthday party. Those who feared the resort had been destroyed were pleased to find that its bones remained intact. However, the atmosphere is considerably glitzier than the understated elegance of the Palmilla of old, with a new celebrity-chef restaurant, flashy uniforms, butlers and suites that would pass muster in Dubai.

The Rooms

Palmilla's buildings are spread across a bluff over the sea of Cortez, providing every room with ocean views. Even the 500- to 600-square-foot entry-level rooms have separate seating areas and balconies or terraces. The decor is a mix of Mexican and modern, with something slightly overdone about it. But that's easy to overlook, especially in the best rooms on the bottom floors, where low-walled stone terraces with daybeds attract birds and affable iguanas. Suites start at 750 square feet for a junior, while the 20 one-bedrooms are nearly double that size, with acres of marble and egg-shaped bathtubs that provide ocean views. The one-bedrooms also come equipped with iPods, handheld devices for viewing TV or movies and laptops.

The Service

Service is better at Las Ventanas and Esperanza, but they've had a head start. The staff at Palmilla is earnest and eager, and when things are running smoothly, you couldn't ask for more. The concierges are efficient and knowledgeable, and Palmilla has an impressive menu of activities. A universal complaint is that the staff is trained to touch hand to heart whenever they encounter a guest, something that's initially charming but is essentially an irritating gimmick.

The Highlights

In November, 2008, Charlie Trotter's restaurant, C, will be replaced by MARKET, a "new dining concept" from Jean-George. This less-formal eatery was designed by Adam Tihany (a Forbes Traveler 400 board member) and features a relaxed but chic atmosphere with regional eats presented as "couture cuisine." There's also an open-air palapa-roofed Mediterranean restaurant for the more tradition-minded. Where Palmilla excels is in the extras: the welcome tequila, fresh fruit bowls and cocktail snacks in the rooms, the foot massages, sunglasses-cleaning, fruit ice pops, spritzes and cold towels by the pool. The beach has one of Cabo's few swimmable areas, and for a fee, there are three private coves that can be reserved by the day, complete with butler service and hanging beds under a canvas canopy.

 

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