London
England


The Experience

Intimate and idiosyncratic, the former hospital that is now the Covent Garden Hotel is a bijou hideaway that captures the spirit of the neighborhood after which it is named. In an area known for its colorful traffic-free side streets filled with cafés and one-off boutiques, the hotel's fun and eclectic style attracts a bohemian crowd of actors and film stars. The entrance hall is suitably dramatic, with a curtain stretched across the proscenium arch, like a stage set in the theater. To one side is lively Max's brasserie with a striking zinc-topped bar; step on by and the theatrical fantasy continues in the 53-seat cinema, outrageously kitted out in chic Poltrona Frau leather armchairs.

The Rooms

When talented hotelier Kit Kemp opened this hotel in 1996, its cozy, flamboyant rooms filled with trompe l'oeil murals, tapestries and textures were a daring antidote to the minimalist trend of contemporary hotel design. Now, of course, Kemp's artistic flair and witty interpretation of the classic English style -- traditional tartans, pinstripes and floral chintzes juxtaposed with shocking color combinations such as candy pink or green -- is absolutely spot-on. Richly textured and wallpapered bedrooms have a romantic allure, with vast four-posters, exposed beams, fireplaces and sloping garret-style ceilings. And whimsical details make the experience complete, with lavender-scented skirt hangers, upholstered dressmaker dummies, expensive candles and splendid bathrooms decked out in granite and mahogany.

The Service

Informal though the atmosphere is, service is never offhand or inattentive. So many famous faces cross the portals of this hotel, you'd imagine that the youthful staff must have to make mighty efforts not to look too impressed. Yet they somehow manage this with great panache and discretion, welcoming all guests in the same pleasant, open manner.

The Highlights

In this most unhotel-like of hotels, you won't feel self-conscious if you make yourself at home, putting your feet up as you read a newspaper in the Tiffany Library on the first floor. In this cozy cocoon of a room, with its open fire and comfortable plaid winged armchairs, you mix your own drink at the honesty bar, or indulge in childish treats that you haven't enjoyed since school. Dip into the (organic) ice cream, help yourself to chips and nuts in the pantry and plunder the bookshelves for juicy novels you haven't read in years.

-- Catherine Fairweather

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