London
England


The Experience

Located in the middle of Knightsbridge's ultrafashionable Sloane Street (called "the new Bond Street" these days) is this historic hotel with the feel of an Edwardian townhouse. Indeed, the property originally opened its doors back in 1887, and in its early years it had a certain notoriety: Actress Lillie Langtry, "close friend" of King Edward VII, used to stay here, and Oscar Wilde was arrested in room 118 in 1895 (and all three have suites named after them). Today it's within a few minutes' walking distance of many of the capital's chicest designer boutiques. The interior is somewhat schizophrenic: Its blend of period Edwardian and relatively contemporary styles tends to clash, though it certainly makes for an eclectic environment.

The Rooms

Schizophrenia has its perks: You can stay in old-fashioned English-style rooms or more modern digs. In the Edwardian rooms, furnishings are very traditional, featuring chintzy fabrics for curtains and sofas and old prints on the walls, with occasional tables and porcelain plates completing the look. Contemporary style is not quite as cutting edge as one might think, but the lines are cleaner and the colors bolder. On the whole, rooms are small -- starting at just 215 square feet -- and corridors even smaller. But upgrade to a deluxe Junior Suite for a king-size bed.

The Service

Service is not the Cadogan's strongest suit: Old retainers mixed with somewhat baffled foreigners seem to form the backbone of the workforce. They never seem to look tremendously happy, but certainly do their best.

The Highlights

The clash of styles can be seen most in the bar, with its pseudo-suede walls, stainless-steel bar, marble bar-top and the many old-fashioned pleated silk lampshades. But Lillie Langtry's drawing room, now the site of the restaurant Langtry's, is more refined. With just 35 seats, it is an intimate spot in which to savor such English classics as toad in the hole or bread and butter pudding, as well as more contemporary fare. But perhaps the best thing about staying here is that it gives you privileged access to one of London's finest garden squares -- Cadogan Place Gardens -- where you can play an energetic game of tennis or simply sit and relax, away from the hustle and bustle.

-- Alistair Scott

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