Lyon
France


The Experience

This ancient labyrinth of four buildings in the heart of Lyon is infused with history, evidenced in the ornately carved interior staircases, statuary and archways that open onto welcoming lounges and the reception area. An ancient passageway leads into an interior courtyard covered with a glass dome that keeps out the rain but lets in the light. Eight other courtyards lie scattered around the four buildings that the Duke of Burgundy plus various merchants, bankers and Jesuits called home from the 1300s to the 1600s. Still, it wasn't until 2000 that these magnificent buildings were restored and fused to form the Cour des Loges, so despite the historic backdrop and a smattering of antique pieces, the decor veers sharply into the 21st century -- an effect that some find jarring.

The Rooms

The rooms, too, mix many centuries -- the signature style of owners Jocelyn and Jean-Louis Sibuet, who first developed a following with their Bastide de Marie in Provence. Amid the ancient wood ceiling beams, antique crystal chandeliers and jewel-toned velvets in the Renaissance spirit, you'll also find Wi-Fi access, modern metal lamps, awning-striped silk taffetas and bathrooms done out with Philippe Starck fixtures and illuminated bathtubs. It's truly hard to go wrong: Some rooms have impressive carved stone fireplaces; others open onto gardens; still others boast exposed original stone walls hung with modern art. While all are spacious, the duplex suites are particularly open and airy and have the feel of artists' lofts.

The Service

While the English of some staff members might be a little halting, the service revs up to please even the most demanding guests -- Celine Dion and Johnny Hallyday, to name two. The concierge has been called the best in the region, with contacts that can get guests in anywhere -- even hard-to-book tables at the most famous restaurants.

The Highlights

The rooftop, with its cool gardens and gazebo, is a splendid spot for resting after a day marching round town. Or hit the heated indoor swimming pool and sauna for working off some of Lyon's gastronomical excesses. The hotel tries hard to tempt guests to stay put and dine at its restaurant, with cuisine like garlicky cinnamon chicken with Swiss chard, and it generally works: The food is delicious. And the setting couldn't be more inviting, under the vaulted arcade of one of the ancient courtyards.

-- Kathleen Beckett

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