Nayarit
Mexico


The Experience

Only 40 minutes north of Puerto Vallarta, the Four Seasons has the best location in the area, on a promontory of the Bahia de Banderas facing its own stretch of Pacific and little deserted islands. The property has an impressive 1,500 acres of grounds -- a mix of Mexican desert framed by the mountains with more lush manicured areas -- and feels like its own little country. In fact, since it's such a heavily guarded compound, if you woke up here you wouldn't know it was Mexico. Most people don't come for authentic Mexico, however, but for features like the infinity pool that looks out on the ocean, the yacht for guest use and the Tamai, an adult-oriented pool with private cabanas that come with iPods and Internet access.

The Rooms

You never feel squeezed for space here, as even the smallest rooms start at 625 square feet, with king or two queen beds. Cream or whitewashed walls, plus marble floors and carpets give a tropical feel to the rooms, with the occasional Mexican-designed carpet in the typically grand Four Seasons bathrooms (double sinks, oversize tubs, space for two) lending a vague sense of place. Everyone gets a private balcony or terrace looking out onto the ocean, but suites can be five times larger, with their own plunge pools and almost dreamily dramatic settings over the ocean.

The Service

Staff are responsive, quick and warm. They seem to anticipate what you'll need before you do. For example, cold water, snacks and iced towels are brought in rapid succession around the pool. Even complimentary sunscreen is provided.

The Highlights

There are no lack of activities: Golfers love the Jack Nicklaus-designed championship golf course, while tennis lovers can play on four different surfaces. Sybarites can hang out at the spa where the variety of massage is particularly wide ranging. The major drawback here is the average food; while some Mexican standards like guacamole and fish tacos are on offer, the spicing is so suited-for-Americans mild that dishes don't taste authentic. Still, having a setting on the ocean has its advantages: From December to March you can watch humpback whales cruise past on their ancient journeys, practically close enough to touch.

-- Ondine Cohane

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