Though this establishment is a bit off the beaten track in a middle-class neighborhood due east of Piazza del Duomo, the young owner and his family work overtime to make this pensione one of the best lower-priced lodgings in Milan. Rooms occupy the fourth floor of an apartment house. Several have private bathrooms, and all are bright and nicely decorated with streamlined, wood-veneer modern furnishings -- many sporting a thematic stars-and-stripes color scheme. Guests are welcome to join the resident innkeepers in the living room and watch TV. All of the rooms with shared bathrooms have sinks, and two even have showers (but no toilet). The Rolling Stone music club, a fixture on the Milan nightlife scene, is on the ground floor of the building, a good reason to ask for a room facing the quieter giardino (garden) courtyard (no. 10 even has a balcony). For more conventional sightseeing, the Duomo is about 20 minutes away by foot or 10 minutes by tram.