Long before contemporary-cool competitors such as the Bulgari and Park Hyatt arrived in this fashion center, the Four Seasons was the undisputed king of modern Milanese chic. Occupying a choice corner in the heart of the city's retail fantasyland and elegantly constructed from a onetime 15th-century monastery (cloistered gardens, Renaissance gardens and gilded vaults still intact), the Four Seasons remains a perennial favorite of the world's most stylish business and leisure nomads.
The RoomsAs befits a hotel set in Italy's fashion and design capital, the rooms at the Four Seasons are crafted from a veritable who's who of top Italian brands -- from Alessi accessories to Acqua di Parma bath products and handblown Murano glass chandeliers. Most rooms come with walk-in closets big enough to handle any size shopping spree. Opt for courtyard-facing rooms or unique suites including the loftlike bilevel ones that face a private garden. Better still, upgrade to the new Brioni Suite for the ultimate in local luxury branding, with Castiglioni lamps, duo of bathrooms, balcony quartet and coolly masculine interiors from the house of Brioni itself.
The ServiceFour Seasons at its very best. With everyone from fashion-world heavies to global business greats, La Scala lovers and lunching princesses, the staff handles every request with precision and aplomb. Concierges can easily arrange leisurely outings, from after-hours boutique binges to a round of golf at the Golf Club Villa D'Este, 70 minutes north.
The HighlightsPerhaps owing to its age -- 16 years in December 2006 -- the Four Seasons lacks five-star standards such as a swimming pool or comprehensive spa, though in-room massages and other body treatments are available for the fashion fatigued. Still, the Four Seasons' biggest draws are its effortlessly elegant restaurants, La Verandah and Il Teatro, where executive chef Serge Mei turns out modern Italian and European dishes, such as raviolis with potatoes, sweet onion and mint or grilled veal with endive, shallot and pistachio pesto. Groups of eight to 12 can dine with the chef himself and his expert sommelier.
-- David Kaufman