New York City



The Experience

The Carlyle, an unabashedly Upper East Side establishment on Manhattan's Madison Avenue, appeals to those looking for a white glove type of property in a world where luxury has become dominated by corporate five stars or boutique brands. With its history and reputation for discretion, it is a magnet for royalty, heads of state and old money; not surprisingly, the old-school vibe slips into just plain stuffy. However, the hotel sits in perfect proximity to Central Park, the Metropolitan Museum and the shops of Madison and Fifth Avenues.

The Rooms

Decked out in the style of the grand apartment counterparts nearby, rooms come with antiques, framed original Audubon botanical prints and more than a touch of Anglophile style. In many of the standard units, some new decor is in order; the charmingly faded bedspreads and couches verge on the just plain faded. Marble bathrooms, although not huge, come with whirlpool tubs. Views are one benefit, if you can get a room overlooking Central Park. Top draws are the understated Thierry Despont-designed suite on the top floor and the $6,000-a-night Royal suite, which comes with its own Steinway.

The Service

Regulars get the royal treatment, but onetime guests have been known to encounter a snotty attitude, especially if they don't look the part. Don't be intimidated: Once you throw the New York attitude back at them, the staff jumps to attention.

The Highlights

English hunting scenes, plush, chintz-covered banquettes and mirrored alcoves fill the warm restaurant helmed by Greek chef Jimmy Sakatos, who creates dishes with a nod to his Mediterranean roots, like lamb moussaka and whole grilled fish. Over in Bemelmans bar, it's hardly a surprise that a hotel with this formality could turn out a delicious martini, but these, served by white-gloved bartenders, attract even the locals (and hark back to another era). Also trapped in time is the intimate Café Carlyle; its acclaimed cabaret singers and jazz ensembles seem a fitting way to finish off an Upper East Side day.

-- Ondine Cohane

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