The rest of New York may be supercharged and up-to-the-minute, but within the '30s-era walls of this classic, it's still an earlier, more gracious time. Rooms, some of them former apartments, are spacious and residential in feel, the wood-paneled elevators still have welcoming, uniformed operators and the entry from Fifth Avenue has a long, carpeted hallway that could have been the setting for a Fred and Ginger number. That's the good part. The bad part is that all this old-fashioned gentility also translates into old-fashioned fabrics and furniture that have been looking very tired in recent years. But look for this to change: Taj Hotels, which bought the hotel in 2005, is doing a $35-million renovation due to be finished in stages and all by 2008.
The RoomsAll of the rooms are unusually large by New York standards, but the 11 Grand Suites, ranging from 1,300 to 2,000 square feet, are very grand indeed, particularly since several, such as the Park and Presidential, have full-on Central Park views; others, such as the Charles Pierre and Getty suites, have 900-square-feet terraces, perfect for entertaining or serious lounging. The current decor, with heavy drapes and upholstery with carpeting in contrasting, sometimes conflicting, patterns, is dated. But the choice of designer Alexandra Champalimaud to update the look is a good one; her sharp, Deco-inspired designs at London's Berkeley Hotel give an indication of what she might do here.
The ServiceThe staff here is exacting and courteous in the old-school way; they must be instructed to leave all New York attitude at the door and take on the manners of the 1930s once they're inside. Warmth, patience and attention to detail are the hallmarks.
The HighlightsMore accessible to all is tea in the Rotunda, a rounded room decorated with murals that mix mythological figures with familiar faces from the '60s...look closely and you'll see Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. Workout room? Restaurant? Spa? Or walk through the park?
--Laurie Werner