Phoenix
Arizona


The Experience

Phoenix's grande dame has grown into a massive resort that somehow manages to remain true to its original spirit. Designed by an acolyte of Frank Lloyd Wright, who oversaw the creation, the 1929 resort is distinguished by its "Biltmore Blocks," variations on the molded cement blocks Wright used in his Mayan-inspired houses. Gold leafing makes for some inconsistencies with the Craftsman furniture, but there's no other hotel in the world like this one (Wright's only hotel, the Imperial in Tokyo, was torn down decades ago). Staying here is an experience somewhere between architectural heaven and a sprawling alternate universe where you can feel the presence of old Hollywood stars. Something about the distinctive architecture provides for an intensely personal experience of this resort, which never seems to be as overwhelmingly large as it really is.

The Rooms

The Wright touches continue in the rooms, which sport large, dark-honey-hued Craftsman-style furniture and 1930s-style lamps. No, nothing's original, but rooms are generously sized, with entry levels ranging from 400 to 600 square feet, and most including balconies or terraces with French doors. The original casitas, individual villas with two accommodations each, look enticing from the outside, but are not much larger than rooms, and their "private" patios aren't even very private. More in line with contemporary standards (though still with reproduction Craftsman touches), suites in the Terrace wing feature wet bars, L-shaped couches, plasma TVs, wraparound terraces and high beds (but surprisingly dinky bathtubs). Book a villa suite for modern Southwestern decor, pueblo-style fireplaces and full kitchens -- but be sure to get one on the second floor, as bottom floors are darker and have no views.

The Service

Service can range from slightly grouchy to enthusiastic, gracious and accommodating. The front desk staff are efficient and quick to correct any billing errors without a fuss, while concierges happily add personal recommendations to stock answers. The waitstaff in Wright's is unusually well-informed about the ingredients of each dish, and equally good with wine suggestions.

The Highlights

With all the Biltmore's growth over the years, it's fortunate that the new wings have remained architecturally faithful, down to wood paneling in the Paradise wing. And the resort keeps updating, with the spa soon to move to a new building. True, Clark Gable and Marilyn Monroe would be flabbergasted by the resort's size: two 18-hole golf courses, eight pools, seven tennis courts and a 22,000-square-feet spa. And the bar is always packed. Still, it's not difficult to carve out your own slice of space here, whether it's a serene corner of the majestic lawns or out by the bar's fire pits, where you can enjoy a quiet drink under the night sky.

-- Laurel Delp

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