Phuket
Thailand


The Experience

It's easy to see why the Banyan Tree is popular with the Thai Royal family: Stretched over 21 acres of manicured paths and ponds, it's the most luxurious of the five properties forming the 988-acre Laguna Phuket development. But the complex of individually sized and shaped walled villas also comes with one of Thailand's top spas, making it perfect for hard-core spa-seekers as well. And with its high level of privacy and top-notch recreation amenities such as numerous swimming pools and an on-site par 71 golf course, the resort is perhaps Phuket's only real competitor to the venerable Amanpuri.

The Rooms

The resort's 123 freestanding villas seem to continually one-up each other in size, style and en-suite amenities. Most include oversize plunge pools, junglelike gardens, teak floors, platform beds and murals portraying scenes from ancient Thai mythology. Still, it's the newest batch that most impress, with glass-walled bedrooms set atop lotus ponds, spa pavilions floating like lily ponds and even in-room spas. The hotel's sheer size, however, means villas are a buggy ride away from the rest of the hotel, and those choosing to avoid the commute should stick to Jacuzzi Villas closest to reception.

The Service

Since each movement from villa to dining room to beach requires a buggy ride, guests have constant contact with staffers throughout the day. All possess the "yes sir", "no sir" style that is nearly a Thai cliché, but their innate friendliness can't help but rub off. The resort's breezy, al fresco check-in area gives the Banyan Tree a leisurely feel from moment one. But the numerous bellboys, reception attendants and smart-suited managers -- likely sweltering in the Thai sun -- ensure a level of casual formality that sets the tone for the entire resort.

The Highlights

The Banyan Tree is home to Phuket's most comprehensive spa, where treatments can last literally three hours and are held (as in the villas) in open-air pavilions. What it lacks, however, is direct access to the beach, a prime slice of Bang Tao Bay, which is a short shuttle ride away and shared with guests at the Laguna Complex's more hoi polloi resorts. Still, the Banyan Tree's Laguna location means easy access to its 18-hole golf course along with its surprisingly lively, high-quality shopping center, especially the modern crafts shop Mandalay. And while some half-dozen restaurants compete for your culinary favor, stick to the modern Thai dishes and contemporary dining room of Saffron.

-- David Kaufman

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