Bagnols
France


The Experience

A magical mystery of moats, drawbridges and lavender-scented formal gardens, this is in essence a grand home rather than a hotel of any category. The château itself dates to the 13th century, but was gorgeously restored beginning in 1987. Today it’s a part of the Rocco Forte portfolio, so not only is it expertly managed, but it’s imbued with history everywhere you turn. Then step outside and you’re surrounded by vineyards, forests and hills -- and deep in the heart of Beaujolais country.

The Rooms

History is built in to the essence of each room here, adding to the romance and individuality of each. This one used to be the 15th-century command post for the drawbridge, that one was part of the former chapel. And with characteristics like exposed beams or vaulted ceilings, each harbors a mystique of its own. There’s the modest La Tour des Sentinelles (Room 16), with its “grotesque” carved bedposts and antique purple velvet bedspread, and the lavish Appartement aux Bouquets (Room 6), with its opulent bed à la Polonaise, draped in heavy yellow brocade fabric and scented with a hint of wood smoke from the open fireplace. It may be difficult to choose, but it’s hard to go wrong.

The Service

The concierge will deftly book you into one of the eight Michelin-starred restaurants within an hour’s drive (they have 16 stars between them), though in August many are closed.

The Highlights

You don’t have to travel far for your Michelin star -- the restaurant has one of its own. Start with an aperitif in the Grand Salon, with its magnificent carved Renaissance fireplace, then move on to the elegant La Salle des Gardes dining room -- or, in summer, dine in the shade of the 100-year-old lime trees on the terrace. Drink fragrant Beaujolais (white as well as red), and relax on a lounge by the circular Roman pool. You can also go hot-air ballooning over the Villages des Pierres Dorées or visit the cellars of the best winemakers. For a more relaxed repast, order one of the hotel’s delicious lunchtime picnic baskets and eat outside, basking in the history of this glorious château.

--Alistair Scott

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