Singapore



The Experience

The Fullerton is a knockout in a city with no shortage of five-star hotels, including the historic Raffles and the distinctively modernist Ritz Carlton -- and the Fullerton somehow manages to combine the best of each. Built on the Singapore River in the Colonial era (1928) as the city's main post office and Chamber of Commerce -- including a lighthouse -- the hotel's exterior Palladian style is monumental, accented by Doric columns dramatically lighted at night. But step inside and you'll find a different aesthetic: the ultramodern decor of the courtyard lobby, drenched in soft light from a glass ceiling and massive windows facing the river. And on the terrace outside is the jewellike infinity pool lined with lounge chairs overlooking the busy river.

The Rooms

Because this is an historic building, rooms come in varying shapes and sizes, with some feeling a bit cramped. The courtyard rooms are the least desirable and quite claustrophobic, as their windows overlook the lobby. Rooms, decorated in muted beiges and creams (modern but not as avant-garde in design as the public rooms), start at 420 square feet, while suites begin at 818 square feet. You'll want a river view at the least, but there are many variations within even that -- some rooms provide city views, some of the harbor and ocean, others of the marina and Esplanade arts center. The eight dramatic loft suites have high French doors that open onto balconies, with the two stories connected by spiral staircases. The Fullerton suites on the top floor have large open terraces with sweeping views.

The Service

Service is not quite on the level of that found at some of the older hotels, where it's been refined over years, but it's generally excellent. The concierge desk is obliging and will make an effort not only to inform guests of what's available but to obtain tickets, make restaurant reservations and give shopping advice. Waiters in the restaurants are fast and efficient, and room service almost always comes exactly when they say it will.

The Highlights

The Fullerton is popular with Singaporeans, who come to the restaurants and bars, particularly the Post Bar, which mixes modern decor -- including onyx tables lighted from below and crinkled heavy paper standing lamps that resemble unopened trumpet flowers -- with the soaring ceilings and columns of the old post office. The tiny French Lighthouse Restaurant (reservations a must) in the old lighthouse tower is ringed with windows and views. The pool is small and can quickly fill, which can be demoralizing if you've been envisioning it all day while trudging through Singapore's heat and humidity. The extra expense for the Straits Club (gratis to people in suites) is well worth it. In addition to food and drinks, it's in the old Singapore Club, once an exclusive billiards and gaming room, with arched coffered ceilings and Peranakan (the culture that resulted from Chinese–Malay intermarriage) antiques -- a complete contrast from the 21st-century decor downstairs.

-- Laurel Delp

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