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England
The Experience
Perhaps it is this estate that inspired Lewis Carroll (he was a frequent guest) to pen Alice in Wonderland. There's something very Mad Hatter about its über-contemporary landscape -- perhaps it's the lime-green couches, cowhide chairs and Hemphill fabrics that make it feel wild and otherworldly. But there's still a regal, refined sensibility. Few hotels outside of London have managed to be both provincial and urbane, but Cowley succeeds, with its Italianate main house, world-class spa and quirky touches. Until you step out into the 55-acre expanse, in fact, you'd think you were in a hip city hotel.
The RoomsGood, better, great, exceptional, best: With this nomenclature, the Cowley makes it very clear what level their rooms are. Good rooms are small and have no outdoor space (neither do "better" rooms), but still include a Nakamichi sound system, flat screens and of course that tongue-in-cheeky upper-crust British sense of humor (though sound-proofing is a small issue). Step up to "exceptional" rooms for an outdoor space (though be sure to ask for it); there's only one "best" room, with a four-poster bed, a bathtub built for two (with views of the manor) and a balcony. It almost goes without saying that if you like antiques, stay elsewhere.
The ServiceAn army meets guests upon arrival before they've even entered the halls, and requests (even for a last-minute manicure) are cheerfully fulfilled. Some staffers seem overwhelmed by the number of children roaming the halls, but for a trendy hotel for London media types, the service is outstanding.
The HighlightsAn outdoor pool is a luxury in these parts, but the spa has one nonetheless (as well as one indoors), while stellar treatments are given in a new building beside the stable block. The spa's a good place to escape the occasional madness from families who make this their second home on the weekends (taking advantage of the kids' room and an area with PlayStations), or stroll around the 55 acres. Return for the restaurant's British comfort food (hint: Stick with the Shepherd's pie or bangers and mash), then have a drink under the hilarious papier-mâché hunting trophies at the bar. It's the best place to end the night -- or write a novel of your own.
-- Heidi Mitchell
