Zermatt
Switzerland


The Experience

Arriving at the Zermatterhof in the car-free alpine village of Zermatt -- home of that iconic pyramidal peak, the Matterhorn -- is a special experience no matter what the season. Normally, the alpine hotel's horse and driver will parade you in an elegant pale blue carriage along the main street, but if it's really snowy you might be transported up the hill from the train station in a hefty two-horse open sleigh. Opened in 1879, this hotel is unique in being neither an independent business nor part of a chain, but actually owned by a cooperative of members of the community here. Hence the locals really care about "their" hotel and make good use of it themselves. It also gives the place a more relaxed air than that of its more formal counterparts. The property itself is well located, transport links to the main lift stations are good and the best shops in town are on your doorstep.

The Rooms

The balcony views of the mesmerizing Matterhorn from most of the rooms here make the accommodations some of the most special in the world. In the tradition of the grand hotel, comfortable and spacious guest rooms differ dramatically in decorative style -- some are festooned in florals, while others are more rustic, with knotty pine accents. Rooms are by no means lavish, and in some instances could even be described as cozy, with patchwork quilts and wooden canopied beds. The Chalet Suite, tucked under the eaves with wood-burning fireplace, is a treat, and an ideal nest for a honeymoon.

The Service

The newish general manager, Rafael Biner, is in the process of changing the style and character of the hotel. However, not wanting to upset either locals or long-standing guests, he's sensibly doing this in a cautious, evolutionary and typically Swiss way. The maître d'hôtel in the dining room still wears a tailcoat and many guests still dress in jacket and tie, but the atmosphere is getting more relaxed. On a one-to-one basis, the staff is a pleasure to deal with, and eager to accommodate special requests, like arranging climbing lessons on the Riffelhorn, glacier skiing, lakeside picnics and sightseeing flights around the Matterhorn.

The Highlights

With just two restaurants and two small bars, the hotel's dining and drinking options are limited but serviceable. Prato Borni restaurant serves serious French and Italian dishes. Those looking for lighter fare or an après-ski pick-me-up should check out the more informal on-site eatery, Lusi -- named for the small folding lanterns that mountain guides used to use to mark their paths. A totally refurbished spa opened in 2006 with new facilities and treatment rooms, and much to the delight of locals, the Zermatterhof's vast (and beloved) swimming pool remains.

-- Alistair Scott

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