Lucerne
Switzerland


The Experience

It’s hard to believe that this majestic hotel, which celebrated its centenary in 2006, was once a military hospital. But after being intermittently knocked around for close to 100 years (it also served as a provisions storage vault during WWII), it has been painstakingly restored to its former true grandeur. The imposing Art Nouveau facade is as good as new, the lofty marble-columned interior sparkles and its ambience is nothing short of regal. Just a few yards from Lake Luzern and five minutes from town, this is the best-positioned and finest hotel in the area. Its motto -- le nouvel art de vivre -- says it all.

The Rooms

While the twin rooms are not notably exciting, upgrade to a deluxe Junior Suite or higher and you discover much more inviting accommodations. Request one of the newly restored suites made over in the hotel’s original Belle Epoque style,which feature balconies or terraces with panoramic views over Lake Luzern and the lake beyond. While there’s a whiff of fustiness to some of the “updated” decor, the period furniture and sumptuous upholstery fabrics (think magenta and gold stripes) are generally pleasing. The Suite of Arts, and the finest of all, the Palace Suite (both more than 1,100 square feet), have a much more contemporary, eclectic feel, with torchon-style lights and clean-lined Moderne chairs and rugs. The latter has a private dining room and a bathroom that is, well, anything but private -- it’s separated from the bedroom by a glass wall with sliding screens.

The Service

The service is as unflinchingly professional as you would expect from a top Swiss five-star, but as this hotel has 13 meeting rooms equipped with the latest technology, there is always a risk that the staff could be preoccupied with a posse of chocolate- or watch-making executives. The thoroughbred Palace Bar waitstaff, headed by Chef de Bar Benoit Meny, takes extra pride in its ultraefficient service and exacting mixology techniques.

The Highlights

In 2003, young Swiss designer Iria Degen brought a much-needed dose of pizzazz to the hotel’s main restaurant. With a prime location overlooking the lake, the hushed cream and taupe dining room recedes into the background so that decorated Chef Ulf Braunert’s culinary creations -- dishes like roast potato gnocchi with tarragon and lobster, and banana cake with balsamic ice cream -- can take center stage. The Palace Spa is justifiably a year-round attraction. As one of a growing number of official ESPA sanctuaries around the globe, it pays homage to the well-being guru Susan Harmsworth, whose sublime aromatherapies, unparalleled products and cutting-edge therapeutic treatments incorporate a heady list of only all-natural ingredients such as rose geranium oil, Hawaiian algae and mallow extract.

--Alistair Scott

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