Zermatt
Switzerland


The Experience

As its name declares, this hotel is set high above the town of Zermatt. What it doesn’t tell you is that up in this rarefied air, the Matterhorn stares you squarely in the face. And while a close-up, 24-hour view of this famous peak is the main highlight here, it’s not the only reason to stay: From the minute you get off at the tiny station and are whisked (by vintage toy-town-style tram in summer and snowcat in winter) up the short, steepish path to the hotel, you can feel the sense of peace and tranquillity that this hotel inspires. This is a place to forget the outside world, a true cocoon hotel that is mesmerizing whether snow-capped or with summer hues. It’s also a hotel with a past: It opened in 1884, but after a checkered history and several periods of closure, it emerged in 2000 as one of the absolute best ski hotels in the world.

The Rooms

The rooms are split between two buildings. So-called Nostalgie rooms are in the original part of the hotel and are more traditional and old-fashioned in style yet have every modern facility. But they’re small, so upgrade to a superior Nostalgie, which gets you more space. Chalet rooms, in the newer part of the hotel, are wood-paneled and spacious, with Jacuzzi baths and separate power showers. Big enough to relax in, they have comfortable chairs or sofas for reading -- and even the view from the bath can be of the surrounding mountain peaks.

The Service

This place is effectively an island, so the service needs to be good -- and it is. Superbly Swiss, attention to detail here is impeccable. Ski rental and ski instructors are both available in-house, and there is also a stylish kids’ area packed with toys to keep children amused.

The Highlights

It’s hard to get away from the Matterhorn view when you’re this close to it -- not that you’d want to. You can see it everywhere from the Schönbiel cave with its steam bath to the outdoor pool. And after a hard day in the mountains, be it skiing or walking, Europe’s highest outdoor pool is a great spot to relax, with its water jet seats where you can sit and watch the sunset. Wellness options abound here, including the Chriiter Grotta, a saline bath hewn out of the rock, complete with waterfall. If you feel the need for some “bright lights,” head down to the village; just don’t miss the last train back to your inspiring mountainside perch.

--Alistair Scott

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