Katoomba
Australia


The Experience

The lush Blue Mountains stretch over the vast Australian countryside, its valleys filled with the blue haze that gives them their name (created from sunlight merging with eucalyptus oil droplets). There's no reason to rush away, which is what Lilianfels has been about since it was built in the 1880s (and why it was transformed into a chic boutique hotel a century later). A 90-minute drive from Sydney, the Orient Express-owned resort has become both a weekend retreat for urban Aussies and a revelation on the wonders of the Blue Mountains for an increasing number of overseas guests. Cave and valley explorations abound in the area, but most opt to lounge around on the property.

The Rooms

If Laura Ashley had been around in Victorian times, this is the sort of decor she would have no doubt produced. Floral patterns predominate -- in the drapes, decorative pillows, wallpaper and canopy-style headboards. That said, the rooms are comfortable, especially the overstuffed armchairs and matching ottomans, and bathrooms are modern and spacious, with tubs large enough for a tête-à-tête. Of course, the mountains are why you come, which is why it's so unfortunate that windows in valley-view rooms aren't larger (for a proper bay window, upgrade to the Spa room). Lilianfels' four suites are all highly individual, but Cloudmaker is the one that truly stands out, with its antique writing desk, solid dining table, lavish bathroom and vertigo views of the Jamison Valley.

The Service

Like everywhere in Oz the staff are chatty, some of them babbling fountains of information, especially those who have worked at Lilianfels awhile and know the Blue Mountains. The concierge can help you plan excursions, arrange transportation and make reservations at nearby eateries.

The Highlights

Start your day with a leisurely tour of the estate's own English-style gardens with the head gardener, who seems to know as much about the history of the place as he does the flora and fauna. By midmorning you're ready for adventure -- touring the Blue Mountains on foot or on the back of a Harley. Duck into the spa for a relaxing Kodo massage or an exotic coconut rub and milk wrap, then dine at Darley's for nouvelle Aussie dishes like crépinette of slow-cooked rabbit or sea scallop raviolis. It's the perfect spot to watch the sun go down, glancing off the sandstone cliffs as its casts its final shadows over the green valley.

-- Joe Yogerst

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