Catalina
Arizona


The Experience

An emphasis on spiritual renewal combined with outdoorsiness sets this desert resort, 135 acres of palmy oasis in the harsh Santa Catalina foothills 30 miles north of Tucson, apart from run-of-the-mill destination spas. As such, the clientele is slightly more Birkenstock than Blahnik; of course, that may change since Steve Case's Revolution LLC took over in 2005. Although the majority of the guestrooms resemble upscale motel rooms--low ceilings, sliding glass doors, beige wall-to-wall carpeting, "Colonial" headboards--more than they do $500-a-night lodgings, that price does include three good meals a day, all gratuities and activities (from yoga classes to mountain bike rides to stress management exercises), one spa treatment--and one freshly renewed spirit.

The Rooms

The rooms, or casitas, are in five courtyard clusters of single-story adobes, loosely ringing the main lodge and separated by winding streams and xeriscape plantings. The decor is tinged with the Southwest--red clay tiles in the bathroom, a vaguely desert sage palette--but some of the rooms have just a shower (no tub), and only a few have fireplaces. (If you upgrade--as you should, if you can--to one of the four Miraval rooms, you're guaranteed one.) The refrigerator in your room will be stocked with free water and juice to ensure you'll stay hydrated.

The Service

The front desk and housekeeping staffs are friendly and helpful, the spa professionals are some of the best in the industry and the activities instructors may embolden you to try something you never thought you'd do--say, scaling the 32-foot-tall climbing wall at sunrise. (If you'd rather sit by the terraced pool all day, though, that's fine too.) The only touch of attitude evident on a recent visit was from a hostess in the dining room--perhaps she was just one bad apple.

The Highlights

As Miraval is all about the activities, there's a rush to sign up for the most popular activities (trail rides, for instance) before they fill up. This is especially true in summer, when middays are only good for napping and treatments in the air-conditioned spa. The food at Miraval's dining room, the Cactus Flower, is less of a draw: Although prettily plated, the servings are small and healthful. Alcohol and desserts are readily available, though the former costs extra and the latter are anything but decadent. Diners vie, in a rather un-zen way, for prime tables on the outdoor terrace, but to the victors go the spoils: a view of those jagged Santa Catalina peaks at sunset.

-- Chris Ryan

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