Venice
Italy


The Experience

To walk a few steps from Piazza San Marco, pick up a telephone and summon a gleaming teak boat to ferry you across the lagoon, away from the crowds, and back to your hotel standing on its own island is an exquisite experience. In a city that is awash with luxury, the Cipriani sets itself apart thanks to its location, its commitment to old-school indulgence and its illustrious history. Since it opened in 1958, when la dolce vita was at its most dolce, it has been one of the world's great hotels, and it's lost none of its luster over the years, imbuing the summer months (it's open only April to October) with opulence and luxury.

The Rooms

Like the hotel, the bedrooms feel formally elegant. Don't expect minimalism here. Instead, furniture has rococo flourishes, and there are plenty of antiques, ornaments and even the occasional mural. Unfortunately, you also can't expect space: Standards are around 180 square feet, and even deluxes run only to 270 square feet. But the Cip is all about its indulgences. Upgrade to at least a superior room; some have terraces with Jacuzzis and views of the famous lagoon. The stupendous Palladio Suite has views from all rooms, including the bathroom, as well as its own terrace with a plunge pool. For more space and privacy there are two all-suite buildings adjoining the hotel, which offer butler service as well as San Marco views.

The Service

Throughout the hotel the white-gloved service is attentive but understated. The Fortuny Restaurant, for instance, runs like clockwork thanks to staff that has service down to an art form. They'll even keep watch to see if you order tea or coffee in the morning, then arrive with the proper beverage before your server has left the table.

The Highlights

With the city's only Olympic-size outdoor pool, this is the one place to be for poolside lounging. Add on a red-clay tennis court and a shuttle that takes guests golfing in some months, and there's plenty of opportunity for exercise. Wind down at the Casanova Beauty and Wellness center for a body treatment or facial. And when it comes time to savor the homemade pasta, take advantage of the outdoor dining. Sit down in the Fortuny's lush garden with its antique water fountain bordering the lagoon, or head to the wooden terrace of Cip's Club; with a view of St. Mark's Square, it's one of the most romantic dining options in a city defined by romance.

-- Stephen Whitlock

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