Taupo
New Zealand


The Experience

Theoretically, you can reach Huka Lodge by canoeing down the trout-filled Waikato River and jumping ashore when you hear the roar of Huka Falls, but most guests choose a more prosaic way to arrive, driving three hours from Auckland or landing by helicopter on the lawn. The original of New Zealand's famous luxury lodges, Huka is tucked away in the rain forest flanking the Waikato River near Rotarua (New Zealand's answer to Yellowstone National Park) and surrounded by seven acres of landscaped gardens. The interior features muted tones and smooth forms echoing washed river stones, punctuated by the occasional hunting-lodge trophy, creating an elegantly rustic cottage atmosphere aimed squarely at the stealth-wealth set. Hunting may be the hook, but relaxation is really the name of the game.

The Rooms

Most guests would rather listen to the burbling waters than Fox News, so TVs and phones are not automatically provided unless requested. The lodge has 20 suites, all decorated in natural tones and simple exposed woodwork; it feels like staying in a friend's luxury weekender. Each room has picture windows overlooking the lush native gardens and river rapids less than 66 feet away. The vaulted ceilings in the bathroom give an airy church feel, while under-floor heating keeps the winter chill at bay. A separate four-suite villa called The Owner's Cottage (originally built for a New York couple in 1937) resembles a gentrified boathouse, with painted beam ceilings and French doors opening to the river.

The Service

Many of the staff are young guns from tony establishments in Europe, so the service is first rate -- from remembering how guests take their coffee to organizing last-minute babysitting. The staff works closely with outside experts to tailor wilderness and adventure experiences. For the best knowledge and fishing advice, grill your New Zealand guide while on day trips.

The Highlights

Huka Lodge isn't big on razzle-dazzle. In essence it's a retreat for the likes of Rupert Murdoch and Bill Gates (both recent guests) who want a simple, flawlessly run getaway and intelligent conversation over the communal dinners, which take place in the main lodge under the watchful eye of assorted hunting trophies. The five-course set menu of mod-New Zealand food (think California freshness and presentation) varies daily and is sophisticated without being too tricky: crab ravioli one day, sautéed tiger prawns the next. Catch a trout on the fly, bag a prize buck or take a helicopter trip to a live volcano called White Island, then lounge by the year-round outdoor fire, sharing fishing tales of greater and greater exaggeration.

-- Adam McCulloch

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