Wairarapa
New Zealand


The Experience

Wharekauhau puts a whole new spin on the traditional New Zealand "farmstay" vacation. A sumptuous abode overlooking the rugged Rimutaka Mountains and Palliser Bay about 10 minutes by helicopter (or two hours by car) southeast of Wellington, this lodge doubles as a 5,000-acre working sheep station. But rather than the modest tin-roofed farmhouses you find on most Kiwi stations, the main lodge is a modern take on the traditional Edwardian country manse, with a grand hall, mullioned windows, sweeping staircase and stone hearths that blaze away both summer and winter. Wharekauhau does double duty as a place of sublime relaxation or a place where you can work up a sweat joining in the farm chores or various sports.

The Rooms

Wharekauhau's dozen suites are situated in whitewashed brick cottages (three to four per cottage) scattered around the grounds, all a couple of minutes' walk from the main house. Kiwi-made clay tiles, wool carpeting, pebble mosaics and hemp curtains are used throughout, a warm sense of organic luxury complemented by plush sofas, fireplaces and four-poster beds draped in delicate fabrics. Spacious bathrooms have separate shower and tub where you can bathe with views of the surrounding countryside. You can get the rooms wired or fully unplugged -- no TV or radio, Net or newspaper. Guests can also book a three-bedroom cottage or a 4,600-square-feet mansion; the latter's one kilometer from the lodge, but it comes with a 4x4 for tooling around the estate.

The Service

You should let them know up front what level of service you desire -- constant attention or discreet disregard -- because Wharekauhau can go either way. A lot of people really do come here to get away from it all, and the staff is more than happy to oblige with extreme privacy. On the other hand, if you really crave or need something, the Kiwis are there in a jiffy.

The Highlights

While the cottages encourage privacy, dinners bring people together around large tables (though you can choose to dine on your own) with classic dishes like rack of lamb, venison and crab broth, complemented by locally grown organic produce and the finest New Zealand libations. On-property activities include horseback riding, clay pigeon shooting, quad bikes and jet boats -- and of course you can learn to shear the sheep -- but helicopter trips are much more fun, going whale watching or wine tasting in a whirlybird. Round off the day with a spa treatment back at the lodge or a walk along wild and remote Palliser Bay with its rocky shore and rugged sea cliffs.

-- Joe Yogerst

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