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Montana
The Experience
Lewis and Clark could never have imagined that the unforgiving land they traversed 200 years ago would become the site of a luxury resort. But the rugged terrain is part of the appeal of Triple Creek Ranch. Opened in 1986 with the capacity for just 56 guests at a time, the retreat stands on 600 acres in the Bitterroot Mountains bordered on three sides by national forest. Fly-fishing, horseback riding and snowshoeing deep into the pine-scented wilderness is what a getaway here is all about, returning home to a log cabin that's as private as you like (though perhaps not as luxurious as you would expect), with a view of the jagged peaks that you can feel is all your own.
The RoomsYou may feel a little disjointed walking into the 19 log and cedar cabins: While you'll find the expected wood-burning fireplace and Western artwork, the brass lamps and Oriental rugs seem a nod to Colonial Williamsburg, while the puffy white leather chairs are more Palm Beach than Wild West. Also unfortunately, cabins have Holiday Inn-ish bright emerald green carpets and less-than-rugged-wood cabinetry. Still, even the standards are a healthy size -- at least 512 square feet -- and some (like Sugarloaf, Sugarbear and Sugarplum) have whirlpool tubs. Luxury cabins tack on a pine-post king bed, two-person steam shower and private outdoor hot tub; suites include a kitchenette. It's the views you came for, however, and the best are from Big Sky Cabin and from the private wraparound deck of the newest cabin, Ponderosa.
The ServiceWhether they're in pearls or Polartec, the attentive staff are ready to help plan a trail ride, procure sunscreen or select dry flies for the day's fishing. The dining room staff seem to have trained under David Copperfield: Plates come and go almost unnoticed; wine glasses are refilled with sleight of hand.
The HighlightsBouillabaisse made with line-caught trout? Pan-seared bison rib eye au poivre? Executive chef David Leatherman, a graduate of New York's French Culinary Institute, delivers local delicacies in the serene, luxe-lodge dining room, which successfully combines crisp, white table linens with moose, deer, elk and antelope mounts on the walls. To work off the calories, there's a gym, pool and tennis courts, but why bother when there's so much nature to conquer? Spend a day on the back of a gentle quarter horse, or lace up your boots and head to some of the Bitterroot's most glorious trails, such as Baker Lake, where you'll find three alpine lakes. Then grab a book and head to the Lookout Bench, gazing up at the land you just explored in the heart of the majestic Bitterroots.
-- Sarah Belk King
