Bangkok
Thailand


The Experience

Just the name of this famous hotel on the banks of the Chao Phraya conjures up images of Graham Greene bent over a typewriter, enriching the world of literature from a smoky, fan-cooled room. In fact, the Oriental, banking on its storied past -- established in the 1860s by two Danish sea captains and hosting the likes of Greene and Noël Coward -- sat on its laurels for some time. But with increased competition from new properties like the Met and Peninsula, the hotel has put new effort into its service and facilities. Everything from the rooms to the fitness center received an extensive, impressive $28 million refurbishment, which started in 2001 and ended in 2006 in time for the hotel's 130th anniversary.

The Rooms

Skip the bland, contemporary garden-wing rooms; river-wing rooms are rich in teak and traditional Thai silks, with floor-to-ceiling windows taking full advantage of the Chao Phraya. But the hotel still pays homage to its literary tradition, with four suites reserved for writers in residence, and this is where you'll get the full Oriental experience. They're by far the best rooms in the property, with period ottomans, four poster beds and a riot of golds and brightly colored silks.

The Service

The staff here makes the hotel's reputation, treating every guest like a famous author; each floor's personal valet is friendly but not obsequious. From your greeting at the door through every area of the hotel, you feel like someone's watching out for you.

The Highlights

A cornucopia of options lies on either side of the river, with the Oriental s boat shuttling guests back and forth. It's worth the effort for the delicious Thai cuisine at Sala Rim Naam, and the newly renovated spa, housed in a traditional Thai teak house. The traditional activity at the Oriental is to grab a drink on the terrace as the sun goes down over the Chao Phraya, but don't pass up high tea in the refurbished Author's Wing. It may seem overdone at first blush, but with finger sandwiches and scones laid out amid the white colonial rattan furniture, it's a great way to while away the late afternoon in a manner reminiscent of old Siam.

-- Ondine Cohane

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