Nha Trang
Vietnam


The Experience

Nha Trang may be best known for its budget backpacker digs, but the Ana Mandara has become a must-stop on Vietnam's luxury trail, a calm fiefdom in a fishing town that at times can seem more chaotic than charming. Set out like a traditional village along its own stretch of private beach, the resort has water views on one side and tropical gardens on the other; the serene landscaping is essential as the entrance is on the city's busiest thoroughfare and almost directly across from the airport. But once inside you feel like you are miles away -- except on the occasion that a flight takes off overhead.

The Rooms

The 17 stand-alone thatched-roof villas come simply decorated with native wood and rattan furniture, teak or tile floors, big beds with mosquito netting and terraces overlooking garden or water -- a model for Southeast Asian beach chic. Standard rooms with garden views run a paltry 290 square feet (including terrace), but the double-height ceilings help minimize the squeezed feeling. Since regular sea-view rooms are the same size, opt for a deluxe or, better yet, one of the Ana Mandara suites, with its own plunge pool, open-air bathroom and direct beach access.

The Service

Southeast Asian service has a deservedly famous reputation, but what's nice here is that the staff is young and helpful but not overly stuffy or obsequious.

The Highlights

Food's a standout in this area, and the resort doesn't just pay lip service to local cuisine. You can go to market with the chef and follow up with a cooking lesson -- a wonderful opportunity despite the 5 a.m. wake-up. The resort has devoted much attention to its activity book, including riverboat rides to a local restaurant and visits to art galleries. Wander past the coconut palms amid the scent of sea air to the Six Senses Spa, with its traditional Vietnamese-style salas raised up on stilts. Treatment rooms are laid out among quiet pavilions; get lost in your massage surrounded by lily ponds and the gentle trickle of miniature waterfalls.

-- Ondine Cohane

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