Southampton
Bermuda


The Experience

Set on a cliff in Southampton Parish, overlooking a wide, coral-free crescent of beach, this resort is a slice of anti-Bermuda, where the vibe is relaxed, never stuffy. It's an attitude that works; this highly personal hotel -- somewhere between a cottage colony and a small resort -- has welcomed guests to Bermuda since 1947 and attracted a fiercely loyal following (and sizable repeat guest list). When new ownership took over the salmon-pink property in 2005, regulars braced for changes, but there have been few that they would object to; many of those favorite staff who have been here for 20-plus years remain, while public areas have been getting a freshening. Today it's an ideal place to enjoy the ocean: All rooms look out onto the ocean -- as does the infinity pool -- and the beach is just below, unlike other hotels that require a shuttle to reach the sand. It's just another way that the Reefs does things a bit differently in Bermuda.

The Rooms

Rooms are simple, yet comfortable, with Caribbean-patterned fabrics and bedding, in keeping with a Bermuda cottage-style. Since the resort is small, some might find ground-floor rooms that step out to the pool area somewhat lacking in privacy. It's worth upgrading to a category with a balcony to soak in the fabulous views of the turquoise water below. Honeymooners and couples seeking escape should book one of the cottages that sit apart from the resort on a coral ridge.

The Service

From the moment that you're greeted with a Rum Swizzle, you'll be treated like family. Staff will remember your name and your special requests. They know there's a good chance you'll be back next year. The resort is also adept at making golf arrangements for guests who want to play one of Bermuda's private clubs.

The Highlights

Ultimately this is an escape for beach lovers, who will appreciate the convenience of having a clean, family-friendly beach right in their own backyard. But the anti-stuffy attitude doesn't stop on the sand. You'll also find it in the resort's casual beach restaurant, Coconuts, which unlike many Bermuda eateries doesn't require jacket and tie. Dine on delicious fish and chips, and at least one night arrange for a private toes-in-the-sand dinner on the beach. While the sun sets over the Atlantic, your waiter will bring you course after course of Chef Laurent's conch chowder, grilled Caribbean lobster and mango cheesecake, which you can enjoy by torchlight.

-- Sallie Brady

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