Antigua


The Experience

One of the pioneers of Caribbean pampering, Curtain Bluff has been around since the days when Kennedy was president, Elvis was king and The Beverly Hillbillies ruled the airwaves. Yet this upscale all-inclusive seems as fresh today as in 1962, when it was the only thing on Antigua's southwest coast. There still aren't very many neighbors, the seclusion assured by Curtain Bluff's location on a private peninsula. True to its name, the resort sprawls like a great muslin cloth along a golden beach and the adjoining rocky heights. Longtime owner Howard Hulford works hard to cultivate a chummy atmosphere for guests, partly by inviting them to his bluff-top home for a weekly cocktail fling. Hulford is also proud of the resort's copious cigar selection and a wine reserve that runs 25,000 bottles strong -- best cellar in the entire region.

The Rooms

Beach and bluff are the choices, although the vast majority of rooms are on the sand, mixed in among the coconut palms. The 40 junior suites flaunt marble and granite bathrooms and tropical wicker decor, as well as private balcony or patio that opens onto the beach. Ceiling fans and sea breeze preclude air conditioning on all but the most balmy nights. The newer Grace & Morris Bay suites are more lavish, with separate living and sleeping quarters, comfy four-poster beds and expansive balconies with private whirlpools that overlook the water. The bluff-top suites are like having your own house -- spacious patios, living rooms and private sundecks with lavish views of both surf and turf.

The Service

With the owner on the property, service tends to be fast and efficient but rarely overbearing. The bartenders can get a little too cool for their own good, but the rest of the staff keeps a low profile. If you do engage the staff in conversation, expect lively discourse -- Antiguans are among the most educated people in the Caribbean and crave good debate.

The Highlights

There's great golf around the Caribbean, but Curtain Bluff is one of the few places where racquets steal the limelight. In fact, it's the only Antigua resort that sports both tennis and squash courts. From deep-sea fishing and scuba diving to kayaking and yacht charter, a full range of water activities are also close at hand. And starting in November 2006, the resort will offer luxury spa treatments. In the kitchen, Christophe Blatz has created a number of delectable Franco-Caribbean dishes to go with those 25,000 bottles of wine, which guests can savor under the "big top" of the main dining room or during the chef's regular cooking classes.

-- Joe Yogerst

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