St. Ann
Jamaica


The Experience

With all the hoopla over all-inclusive resorts and spring-break shenanigans, it's easy to forget there was a kinder, gentler time in Jamaican tourism -- with places like the Jamaica Inn that ooze old-school charm and low-key sophistication. Mellowness comes with maturity, and this hotel's been around since the days when Harry Belafonte (rather than Bob Marley) was this island's most celebrated singer. Nearly everyone who passed through Ocho Rios in those days slept, ate (or drank) at Jamaica Inn -- Errol Flynn, Winston Churchill, Katharine Hepburn and Claudette Colbert, just to name a few. But the hotel also has its modern-day habitués, jet-setters like supermodel Kate Moss who leave their party face at home in favor of a laid-back Jamaican sojourn.

The Rooms

All suites are set on a coral bluff above the sea, with French doors and louvered windows that open onto expansive sea views and a glimmering white-sand beach. All around are spacious lawns and lush tropical gardens, and hammocks strung here and there, giving the feel of a posh private estate. The decor is a modern take on the Edwardian colonial popular in Jamaica before World War Two -- with most everything fashioned from sturdy cane or tropical hardwood against a backdrop of white linen and cream-colored walls. Rooms are thoroughly unplugged -- no electronic gizmos to hinder your tranquillity -- although air conditioning is at your fingertips. The crowning glory of each suite is a spacious balcony or patio outfitted with everything you need to while away a languid day: breakfast table, nap-size sofa and even a writing desk for would-be Noël Cowards. The cottages ramp up the pampering to a whole different level, especially the superexclusive Cottage Three, which has its own wet bar, outdoor shower, infinity pool and beach access.

The Service

With twice-a-day maid service and the option of having full breakfast on your veranda each morning, the service stands head and shoulders above the often-indifferent Jamaican norm. You don't get attitude here; you get bright eyes, smiles and staff who really seem to enjoy what they're doing.

The Highlights

The inn's brand-new KiYara Ocean Spa mixes traditional Caribbean therapies with Polynesian and Ayurvedic treatments, everything based around a holistic approach to the spa experience. Signature hot-rock massages are rendered on chaise longues in the patio of the spa building or secluded thatched-roof palapas on a bluff overlooking the sea. The resort's open-air eatery is très romantic night or day, a blend of Caribbean and transatlantic cooking that has earned kudos from the likes of Gourmet magazine. End your day on the fine little white-sand strand, one of the few secluded beaches in Ocho Rios.

-- Joe Yogerst

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