Patagonia
Chile


The Experience

It would be difficult to find a more dramatic location -- the shore of a tranquil alpine lake, overlooking a colossal waterfall, at the foot of one of the world's most spectacular mountain ranges -- than the Torres del Paine at the southern end of the Andes. Originally conceived as a base camp for serious mountain expeditions, the all-inclusive Salto Chico has evolved into an oasis of soft adventure where guests choose from a menu of daily excursions by foot, horse, boat and four-wheel-drive into the Patagonian wilderness. At a distance, the stark white structure resembles a factory or warehouse, but the offbeat design is actually a modern take on the utilitarian architecture common in Patagonia for nearly 100 years. The ambience is totally laid-back: It's the kind of place where you sit around in the late afternoon sipping sundowners while you plan the following day's excursions with your Chilean guides. Salto Chico is warm and comfy, but don't expect five-star service and amenities this far out in the sticks -- a four-hour flight from Santiago to Punta Arenas followed by a three-hour road journey through one of the most remote parts of South America.

The Rooms

The postmodern wilderness theme continues indoors, with rooms that blend slate and copper with pleasing light-colored woods that make the rooms seem much larger than their actual size. Many of the furniture pieces are one-off, made by local Indian and Hispanic artisans. The elongated windows are kind of like wide-screen TVs with the channel forever tuned to a dramatic Andean panorama. Cordillera rooms offer mountain views; Salto Chico rooms showcase the waterfall (equally good? I personally think so). The six suites are marginally larger, but it's not like you're going to spend a lot of time in the room. The great outdoors awaits.

The Service

Salto Chico service is hit or miss -- it really depends on who you get and how long they've been on the job. Student summer vacation workers tend to be much less conscientious than the vets. Same goes for the guides -- try to hook up with someone who's done several seasons at Torres del Paine.

The Highlights

Salto Chico offers five different "explorations" each day from a list of 21 alternatives. In other words, if you book three weeks, you can actually do everything. Explora maintains a limit of 10 guests per guide to preserve the not-too-far-fetched illusion that you're the only people in this vast wilderness. Trips are either half day or full day. Among the more intriguing destinations are the remote Torres del Paine base camp and Grey Glacier. Horseback rides with a local gaucho and guide are one of the most popular excursions, especially the trips that include a traditional Patagonian "quincho" barbecue. Back at the ranch at the end of the day, go for a dip in the indoor pool, soothe your weary bones in the sauna and then dig into superb seafood and Chilean wine at the Salto Chico restaurant, with its fab views of rock and water.

-- Joe Yogerst

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