Bora Bora
French Polynesia


The Experience

In a world of increasingly over-the-top resorts, the Hotel Bora Bora is refreshingly understated, with its collection of thatched-roof buildings clustered along the shore of the island's storied lagoon, on the southwest corner of Mount Otemanu. First opened in 1961 and acquired and updated by Amanresorts in 1989, the property casts a hypnotic spell; privacy seekers especially appreciate the secluded setting and kick-off-your shoes ambience. Black-lava stone paths, edged with banana trees and coconut palms, wind through lush tropical gardens, and even at its busiest the resort feels uncrowded -- one reason it's popular with paparazzi-shy celebs and corporate types.

The Rooms

Whether on the beach, in a garden or above the water on stilts, each spacious bungalow looks like an old sea-trader's home, done in exotic woods (Tasmanian oak floors, red-cedar walls, teak trim) with rattan and bamboo furniture, netting-draped four-poster beds, woven pandanus-leaf ceilings, plantation shutters and Polynesian artifacts on the walls. They offer enough breathing space between you and your neighbor, and there are plenty of pampering touches: crisp Frette linens, locally made bath products and, upon arrival, his-and-her hand-dyed pareos. All have air-conditioning and most have views of the lagoon. The larger pool fares have plunge pools and terraces with snug dining gazebos, while each of the 15 over-water bungalows has a staircase that leads directly into the lagoon for private snorkeling and swimming.

The Service

Solicitous and discreet, the excellent staff -- mostly French, Tahitian and Indonesian -- moves quietly around the grounds and behind the scenes, to ensure a seamless stay.

The Highlights

The open-air Matira Restaurant, all stone and native woods, is connected to the main bar and reception area, with a view of waves breaking on the outer reef. There's also a breezy lounge with a waterfront deck and Balinese-style barrel chairs. It's not all sitting around, however: The affable activities director can recommend a variety of excursions. Don't miss the nightly arrival of manta rays down by the boat dock. Watching their ghostly silhouettes twirl and shimmer like butterflies in the underwater lights is one of the best shows in town.

-- Jamie Marshall

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