Mystic's most ingratiating lodging is easily overlooked from land, but readily apparent from the river. Perched on the riverbank, the yellow-clapboard structure has apartment-size downstairs bedrooms, with Jacuzzis and wet bars, while the upstairs units have wood-burning fireplaces. Every room is decorated differently -- Laura Ashley must have been a muse -- and all but one have water views. They are, it must be said, starting to look just a bit tired. A nonsmoking policy is enforced. The inn commissioned the 97-foot luxury yacht, Valiant, that is moored at its dock. The five staterooms can be rented when the yacht isn't chartered; log on to www.valiantcharters.com.