St. Petersburg
Russia


The Experience

It’s fitting that Tchaikovsky, Rostropovich, Stravinsky and other all-time-great classical-musical masters have not only stayed here but also rehearsed within the Grand’s walls: It’s directly across the street from the Shostakovich Philharmonia (and just a short walk from the Hermitage). With its Baroque facade, colorful stained-glass windows and Russian antiques peppered throughout the property, the Art Nouveau-style Grand blends perfectly with St. Petersburg’s ancient architecture. But while this building dates to the 1870s and holds the spirits of these classical masters, it still feels as fresh and lively as it must have when it opened.

The Rooms

History lives on in the rooms, with old wooden hangers bearing the hotel insignia from the early years. While it’s a charming touch, you don’t want to be hanging up clothes in the wrong room; standards are not only cramped, at 170 square feet, but also quite simple, despite the general decor of mauve and gold. Terrace rooms are nominally larger, but you’ll feel like you’re living in an old 1930s film as you gaze out from your private terrace with its sweeping view across the city’s fairytale skyline. Junior suites are a better bet: These 600-square-feet split-level rooms even have original parquet wooden flooring. And nonsmokers will be happy: You can request a nonsmoking room, which is still a rarity in Russia.

The Service

On the whole, the staff is well-trained and service is superb; however, service with a smile is not a catchphrase in Russia so don’t be offended at the lack of warmth.

The Highlights

Caviar even in the morning? Why not, especially when it’s the real Russian stuff at the Caviar Bar, which specializes in fine Russian caviars and vodkas, served in a space with tall windows, intricate moldings and a decor of deep reds, ivory and black. But with the hotel’s five restaurants, you’re hardly limited to fish eggs: Dig into excellent sushi at Chopsticks or head to the massive dining room of L’Europe to get lost in its stained-glass ceilings and oyster-and-jazz Sunday brunch. And be sure to catch the 13-piece orchestra that performs on Friday evenings here; it harks back to the days of those classical masters.

-- Kristan Schiller

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