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THE DRAW
• Texas hospitality combined with big-city sophistication
• A thriving, diverse restaurant scene that has elicited "dining-out capital" honors
• A sun-soaked climate balanced with proximity to one of the nation's highest concentrations of pleasure boats
THE SCENE
The lights may be out at scandal-ridden Houston giant, Enron, but the fourth largest U.S. city is still very much plugged in. From the oil boom to the space race, Houston has long played a central role in grandly ambitious projects. The skyscrapers that soar from this former swampland are emblems of a forward-looking commercial and cultural hub grown from a backwater bayou, and it's this contrast that colors the contemporary Houston scene, which includes both a top-ranked ballet company and the world's biggest livestock and rodeo show. Cultural and ethnic diversity, a booming business climate and an outdoor-recreation bonanza mark Houston as a hot spot for adventure and exploration.
TO BE SEEN
• The Museum District is home to a rich palette of institutions, featuring everything from Byzantine frescoes to rare butterflies. Visit the sprawling Hermann Park and have a seat by the reflecting pool to process the cultural data.
• The Houston Space Center has films, exhibits and hands-on activities to get you in the zero-gravity groove. Check out the world's best spacesuit collection, or an actual capsule returned from the stratosphere.
• The megamall Galleria Shopping Center presents a Texas-size assortment of retail opportunities and an ice-rink to cool your hot shopping feet.
FOR THE VIP
• Stroll among the waterfalls and azaleas on the bayou-bank setting of the Rainbow Lodge, then book the private, wood-paneled Wine Room for an intimate dinner overlooking the grounds.
• Charter a yacht and crew from SeaDream Charters and head out to one of Galveston Bay's islands for an overnight sojourn. Rest in a private stateroom and awake to a home-cooked breakfast.
• Get behind the stove for an insider's experience at Brennan's of Houston, with the Chef for a Day package, where the executive chef will coach you through preparation of a Creole-inspired meal. After a lesson in wine pairing, you'll enjoy the gourmet fruits of your labor with a handful of friends.
OVERRATED
Kemah Boardwalk is a popular family-fun stop just outside of town, with an amusement park, aquarium and restaurants, but this erstwhile shrimp port's redevelopment has turned it from fishy to cheesy.
UNDERRATED
The Cezanne Jazz Club draws national acts to its intimate, 40-seat venue. Keep your eyes peeled or you'll miss it -- up the stairs, above the Black Labrador Pub.
DON'T MISS
The Rothko Chapel. This nondenominational "meditative space" houses 14 paintings that the abstract expressionist created specially for the site.
WHEN TO GO
Late winter to early spring to avoid summer's sweltering temps.
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