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The Draw
• Ancient world capital, EU hopeful, emerging 21st-century European hot spot.
• Byzantine and Ottoman architectural wonders Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, and Topkapi Palace.
• Part Europe, part Asia -- a crossroads of cultures that both meld and clash in infinitely intricate ways.
The Scene
Now in controversial negotiations to join the European Union, Turkey is buzzing with change. That's nothing new for this metropolis. Once the center of the ancient world, Constantinople pulled a hip hop-style name change after the Republic of Turkey's founding in 1923. And there's no better sign of Istanbul's latest transformation than the neo-classical, turreted Four Seasons, until the mid-70s the notorious Sultanahmet Prison. Similar luxurious touches are spreading up and down the Bosphorus River, like the happening restaurant Ulus 29, accessible only by private boat. And the fact that the world is now coming back to this cultural cradle can be seen in the Istanbul Biennial, the hub of international contemporary art since 1987. Yet the traditional still holds fast: the Islamic call to prayer can be heard everywhere -- even in a room at the Four Seasons.
To Be Seen
• Nisantasi. The highly fashionable 19th-century quarter, one of Istanbul's most exclusive shopping districts, is also full of art galleries and nightclubs.
• Istiklal Caddesi. Formerly the Grande Rue de Péra, this Europeanized pedestrian walkway stretches from Taksim Square--the heart of modern Istanbul--to less congested Tünel Square. High above it is 360, a club, bar, and restaurant with hard-to-top views of the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn.
• Bagdat Caddesi. On the Asian side of the city, this one-way street is home to high fashion shops and a walk away from waterside fish restaurants (try Anadolu Hisari).
For The VIP
• Get basted. Treat yourself to the Ritz-Carlton's ultimate Turkish bath experience, a full head-to-toe exfoliation and cleansing ritual in an authentic hamam.
• Dine Like a Sultan. Arrange for a private dinner party in a yalis, or waterside mansion, through Private Class Travel Services.
• Expect Experts. Hire a private tour of the city in the language of your choice through the legendary Çiragan Palace Kempinski and you'll ride in one of their BMW 7 series cars.
Overrated
Grand Bazaar. While a highly entertaining shopping experience for first-timers, the Grand Bazaar is a loud, touristy, and crowded maze where perseverant shop owners will haunt you until you leave (or buy).
Underrated
Istanbul Modern. Housed in a former warehouse in the Tophane district, this industrial-looking art museum features a comprehensive survey of Turkish painting. After touring the galleries, make sure you grab a drink at the museum café and take in the view of the Bosphorus.
Don't Miss
• Horhor Bit Pazari. An excellent alternative to the tourist-cramped Grand Bazaar, this seven-floor indoor flea market has every curiosity imaginable and is a good place to eat like a Turk.
When To Go
Autumn and spring. Come when temperatures are mild and summer crowds have yet to arrive or are on their way out. Winter is characteristically rainy.
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