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The Draw
• Zen respite from the modern-day hustle of Tokyo
• Traditional kaiseki meals, or seemingly endless courses of artfully prepared raw, cooked and pickled dishes that reflect a harmony between food and nature
• A wealth of traditional Japanese architecture, with some of the 1,700 Buddhist temples dating back centuries
The Scene
Just three hours from Tokyo by bullet train, Kyoto offers a world of difference from Japan's modern capital. It was the only major city in the country to be spared bombing during World War II, and its impeccably preserved architecture reveals a very ancient history. Wooden temples, sand gardens, onsen (hot springs) and traditional restaurants and shops that date back hundreds of years give visitors the feeling they've traveled back in time. Whatever one's fantasy of Japan -- sculpted gardens, tea ceremonies or geishas -- one can fulfill it here. Yes, progress is slowly encroaching -- buildings are getting taller, the din of machinery is getting louder -- but it will take a long, long time before it overtakes this charming city more than a millennium in the making.
To Be Seen
• Nishiki. Stroll this narrow pedestrian thoroughfare and survey the rows of groceries, fish, pickles, rice cakes and prepared food that extend farther than the eye can see. The street is mostly covered, making a fine activity for a rainy day.
• Funaoka Onsen. This spacious public bath was recently renovated, but the changing room's original wooden relief ceilings from 1923 remain. Try the two outdoor baths made of cedar and rock; they're open to men and women on alternating days.
• Ponto-cho Kaburenjo Theater. Geisha and maiko (geisha apprentices) dance and sing in celebration of the start of spring and fall. Go, if only for the spectacular stage settings.
For The VIP
• Stay the Night at Tawaraya. This 18-room traditional inn seems as expensive as it is old. But its three centuries of service have polished Tawaraya to an understated shine. A stone path leads through a tranquil green garden, candles light the hallways and the maids' kimonos reflect the seasons.
• Visit Saiho-ji Temple. This World Heritage Site is also called the Moss Temple, and justly so: A vast moss garden, first designed by a Zen Buddhist priest in 1339, blankets the grounds, reflecting a stunning variety of greens and blues. To visit, you must reserve by snail mail with a Japanese return address. Address: 56 Jigatani-cho, Nishikyo-ku, Kyoto, 615-8286, Japan.
• Dine at Hyotei. This elegant restaurant first opened 300 years ago to serve tea to pilgrims visiting Nanzen-ji Temple, considered the most important Zen temple in the world. Today it serves lavish kaiseki meals and bento boxes. For kaiseki, each party dines in a private room in one of the tiny houses surrounding a pond and garden. For bentos, diners sit on traditional grass tatami mats in a communal annex.
Overrated
Ryoan-ji. This temple might have Japan's most famous sand garden, but it's also the most crowded. Check out the sand garden at Ginkaku-ji instead; a former retirement villa for a well-known shogun, Ginkaku-ji was turned into a temple in 1490 (see below).
Underrated
Ginkaku-ji. Otherwise called the Silver Temple, this 500-year-old structure is less crowded than its more famous sibling, Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Temple. Meditate in the sand garden or stroll the Philosopher's Path, which follows a city canal past lesser-known temples and green spaces.
Don't Miss
Katsura Rikyu Imperial Villa. The regal garden at this 17th-century palace incorporates images from the Tale of Genji. Written by a Japanese woman in the early 11th century, it was thought to be the world's first novel. Tours are in Japanese only, but English-language pamphlets are available. Tour reservations must be made through the Imperial Household Agency (www.kunaicho.go.jp).
When To Visit
Summers are often hot and rainy, while winters bring a chill. Visit during the spring or fall, so long as you avoid Japanese national holidays. The crowds can detract from Kyoto's calming atmosphere.
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