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The Draw
• Iconic architecture, real life royals, and the spoils of an empire, carefully preserved
• A oasis of civility: lush, abundant gardens, first-rate theater and countless cultural tastemakers
• Transformed culinary status. Goodbye fried. London is now exporting celebrity chefs and importing lighter, fresher, California-style fare.
The Scene
Walk, chat, observe and you quickly discover: London is a city that cherishes its past. Central London retains much of its eccentric medieval layout, so delightful to navigate on foot. That hasn't stopped über-architect Norman Foster from busily pushing London into the 21st century -- from his quirky, enormous 2004 Swiss Re Tower (widely mocked as “the gherkin”), to the 2002 City Hall (a “glass testicle,” according to Ken Livingston). Long on wit, the British sensibility is as appealing as the city's overall elegance. What better place to relax with a pint and enjoy a bit of congenial banter, catch a game of footie and even enjoy a great meal. Yes, you can still find a “chip butty” (a sandwich of french fries and butter), but it's no coincidence that London's own Gordon Ramsay may now be the world's most visible chef. At last you can do more than just gawk at the royals; you can eat like one, too.
To Be Seen
• Kensington, Knightsbridge and Holland Park. Along the west edge of Hyde Park are some of London's poshest addresses: an abundance of late-Victorian homes, smart shops and quality antiques. Here you'll find Kensington Palace and Gardens, the Victoria & Albert Museum and the Royal Albert Hall, not to mention upscale department stores Harrods and Harvey Nicks.
• The West End is the heart of central London, home to the theater district, edgy Soho, bookish Bloomsbury and, to the north, the British Museum. Those looking for the finer things will enjoy Fortnum & Mason -- the Queen's grocer and London's most elegant department store -- and Claridge's, home to one of the city's most celebrated afternoon teas and Gordon Ramsay's restaurant.
• The South Bank. Across the river from the tourists swarming Parliament and Westminster Abbey sits London's artistic epicenter, housed in a series of unlikely concrete Brutalist boxes. Royal Festival Hall's lobby has become a trendy gathering space due to a welcoming bar, good Thames views and free concerts.
For The VIP
• A box above the queen at the Royal Ascot Races. This is the social and sporting event of the year, and if you're serious about being seen, why not sit in your own box overlooking the queen and her entourage?
• A private "Gentlemen's Room" at the Globe Theatre, complete with champagne and canapés, is your best bet for an unforgettable evening with the Bard.
• View a one-day international match from a private box at Lord's Cricket Ground with your own “hospitality team” and a luxury private dining room. Apply well in advance.
Overrated
Covent Garden. Street musicians, mimes and crowds of tourists flock to this lively outdoor shopping area to browse its stalls of average arts ands crafts and passable shops. Better boutiques and more charm can be found down the cobbled side streets such as Neil Street and Neil's Yard.
Underrated
East End. Something of a bohemian hub now, the East End is home to one of London's most innovative arts spaces -- the Whitechapel Gallery and the White Cube -- and, in Brick Lane, Britain's best Bengali food.
Don't Miss
Tate Modern. Opened in 2000 and housed in the former Bankside Power Station, the Tate dispenses with the tired tendency to display works in historical sequence and organizes its works by theme instead.
When to Go
May through September are the warmest months, though rain is always a possibility.
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