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The Draw
• The pulse of the new Russia and the thrill of tasting its excesses, especially its uninhibited nightlife
• A heady mix of historical atmosphere and here-and-now action
• Hotels and restaurants that offer unlimited luxury
The Scene
Can you keep up with Moscow? In less than 20 years, Russia's capital of 12 million has transformed itself from the drab nerve center of the Communist empire to a playground for billionaires. And it's still changing, with new restaurants and shops opening almost by the day. A capitalist fantasia set against the Kremlin's medieval spires and imposing Stalin-era apartment blocks, Moscow encapsulates the energy and pace of the new Russia. Top-of-the-range hotels have set new standards in luxury and decadence, and the nightlife can shock the unshockable. This, coupled with important sights such as Red Square -- considered to be the capital city's (and Russia's) main square -- the fortified citadel of the Kremlin and the multicolored onion domes of St. Basil's Cathedral make Moscow one of the world's most exhilarating cities, and one of the most expensive.
To Be Seen
• Red Square and the Kremlin. The slight rise of Red Square gives the illusion of the curve of the earth's surface -- an appropriate effect for a country as vast as Russia. Adjoining it, the Kremlin fortress is still Russia's center of power after almost a millennium. After admiring its cupolas, pop into the Armory museum to see the Fabergé eggs.
• Tverskaya Street. The 24-hour hub of Moscow's restaurant and nightlife scene, this street branches north from Red Square.
• Tretyakovsky Proezd. This 19th-century-style gallery near Red Square features the world's top designers; it's the ultimate new Russian shopping experience.
• Kolomenskoye. Get away from the hustle of the city and soak up the old Russian atmosphere of this estate museum set in parkland with churches and historic buildings dating back to the 15th century on the Moscow River.
For The VIP
• Arrive in style. Skip the notorious queues at Sheremetyevo, Moscow's main international airport, and get a chauffeur-driven ride into the center of town. For more info: www.privejets.com.
• Fly in an MIG over Moscow. If you have a few days free, Incredible Adventures (www.incredible-adventures.com) can arrange for you to fly to the extremes of the Earth's atmosphere with a Russian fighter pilot.
• Suites with a view. The top-floor suites of the Baltschug Kempinski hotel have unbeatable views of the Kremlin, and not surprisingly have played host to presidents and pop stars. The hotel's caviar brunch is a highlight.
Overrated
Arbat Street. This overpriced touristy thoroughfare clings on as Moscow's premier souvenir shopping street.
Underrated
Zamoskvarechye. Across the river from the Kremlin, and home to the State Tretyakov Gallery, the world's major Russian art collection, this neighborhood -- one of the city's oldest -- deserves credit for its cafes and laid-back arty atmosphere. The craft shops on Pyatnitskaya Street offer better deals than those on Arbat (see above).
Don't Miss
Sandunovskiye banya. No trip to Russia is complete without a visit to a Russian bath house, known as a banya. Sandunovskiye banya's exquisite marble interior, complete with classical sculptures, is the place to experience it. For more info: www.sanduny.ru.
When To Go
In summer, the weather is generally reliable. However, a snow-blanketed winter in Moscow can be unforgettable, especially over New Year's, the main holiday of the Russian calendar, when top hotels, such as the Ararat Park Hyatt, host extravagant celebrations.
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