Plan on making an evening at the "Seven Lizards" (where did it get that name?). The night begins on the main level, which is a kind of tearoom/bar/restaurant. You can begin with a classic French onion soup and follow with such Provençal fare as lasagna niçoise with ratatouille. Main dishes begin at 14€ ($20). Later you can head downstairs for a jazz concert in the stone-built cellar. Many members of the expat jazz community gather here to listen to up-and-coming players. The restaurant is open daily from noon to midnight, and the cellar sees action daily 9pm to 2am.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Paris 2009, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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