Paris Foodie Favorites

David Lebovitz June 30, 2008

 

Best baguettes, finest foie gras, choicest cheeses

The legendary French aversion to modernization is a welcome relief for gastronomes who touch down in Paris looking for comfort in the familiar classics. And in spite of some errant behavior by some of the trendier chefs—such as bacon foams and jellified cumin (and that's just for dessert!)—you can rest assured solid French cooking is still thriving in Paris.

Of all these, the most beloved of them all is steak frites, as evidenced by the lines waiting to get in to Le Relais de l'Entrecôte. Go early, or plan to queue up with the locals, who can't get enough of their butter-basted steak either. There are no choices on the menu, but meat-eaters won't complain about the tender beef, especially with the haystack of crispy friends heaped alongside. And no one will complain about leaving hungry, either: The no-nonsense waitresses come around dutifully and offer seconds.

See our slideshow of Paris Foodie Favorites.

Across town, Le Relais de Venise serves a similar menu, vying for top toque with the steak frites crowd. Like Le Relais de l'Entrecôte, go for the drinkable house red. Their towering ice cream vacherin for dessert stands up formidably to the cross-town competition.

Meat is also the order of the day at Rôtisserie de Beaujolais, where the rotisserie spins overtime, turning out succulent roast chicken. Each bronzed bird slides off the spit, perfectly rendered, served with house-made mashed potatoes. If you're a more adventurous diner, opt for the roasted pigeon, served juicy-pink and rubbed with lots of fragrant garlic and herbs. A carafe of the house Beaujolais Village is the ideal accompaniment with either.

The well-heeled who search for the best roast chicken in Paris should reserve at table at L'Ambroisie, whose Poulette de Bresse rôtie comes stuffed with an overload of black truffles. The famed free-range chicken is presented whole, bedded in a copper roasting pan, then whisked away to be sliced and sauced. Only the bill will dazzle you as much as the dish.

If it's foie gras you're after, you'll find the waiters at Thoumieux happy to oblige with a neat square of terrine de foie gras, dense with the voluptuous, silky duck livers. Crusty slices of levain bread, toasted in the dining room so they're still warm come alongside. The ideal partner is a velvety glass of golden Monbazilliac to sip alongside.

Parisians love couscous so much, it's now considered a French classic, too. At L'Atlas, spoon up a bowl of harira or share a flaky pastilla with sweet almonds, or treat yourself in royal style to a Couscous Princier, served with skewers of roast lamb, chicken, and spicy merguez sausages.

See our slideshow of Paris Foodie Favorites.

For trendier digs, Chez Omar is the place to go. It's been discovered by more than one model-in-training, so you may rub elbows with the next top model checking her BlackBerry between spoonfuls of couscous with roast lamb mechoui. No reservations means weekend nights are more hectic than normal, when the hipsters come out in full force.

Fish is the order of the day at Le Dôme. Schools of seafood lovers head to this classic dining spot where the fish is so sparkling-fresh, it's sold in their market next door to fussy Parisians—and other restaurants, too. Picture-perfect servers fillet your sole française tableside, and it's sauced with unctuous French butter and a mound of potatoes.

When all else is closed in Paris, there's one place that's always open: Au Pied du Cochon. Since 1946, they've been serving the hungry masses any time of the day, but more famously, in the wee hours of the morning. Their letter-perfect French onion soup au gratin is still the best in town, no matter what time of the day. Although you won't find any butchers or bakers dining here nowadays, the long-cooked onions simmered in beef broth, topped with a crackly crouton, tempered by a thick layer of melted cheese draws plenty of others.

It’s worth reserving a seat at Chez Dumonet for the proudest, loftiest soufflé in Paris. The pastry chef requires that you order it at the beginning of your meal, since each is whipped up to order. When it arrives, it's impossible not to gasp: The feather-light meringue defies gravity with its lofty bronzed peaks. A small glass of Grand Marnier comes alongside to pour in the center, soaking the little piece of spongecake nestled in the bottom to be enjoyed at the end, your reward for a job well done when you get there.

No need to order in advance at Le Violon d'Ingres. Soufflés magically appear moments after they're ordered and even more astounding is the river of salted butter caramel the waiter obligingly pours inside. (Tip: When he asks if that's enough, say "Non"… and let him keep pouring.)

Out and about, pastry superstar Philippe Conticini recently opened Exceptions Gourmandes, flaunting his sugary oeuvre in the unassuming place St. Catherine in the Marais. Chef Contincini shows off his line-up of macaroons that are displayed like jewels under glass. But the staff are happy to help you choose. And anyone who leaves without a bag of them is a stronger man than I.

Of course, a visit to Paris wouldn't be complete without a trip to Ladurée, whose classic macaroons garner raves worldwide. The contemporary flavors can be hit-or-miss (licorice and black pepper are misses), but you won't find a better pistachio or chocolate macaroon anywhere. Chocophiles should make sure to order the chocolat amer, made from the darkest chocolate in Ladurée's pantry.

Even though chocolate isn't a part of it, cheese and bread make up two-thirds of the holy trinity in France. (Bring on the wine!) Just a few blocks from the lively Marché d'Aligre is Bazin, where baker Jacquez Bazin can barely keep up with the crowds who line up for le Bazinette, his top-notch baguette ancienne. For a heartier chew, try the Bazinette aux graines, a squat loaf riddled with flax and other seeds.

Another neighborhood favorite is Boulangerie au 140, which became known throughout Paris when it took the prize for best baguette in Paris in 2001. After taking the trophy, the loaves were served in the presidential palace for a year. And years later, it's still one of the best in town.

Good bread demands good cheese, and one of the finest selections is at Laurent Dubois. All the regional classics are represented, from oozing-soft Brie de Meaux (and its lesser-known cousin, pungent Brie de Melun), to aged Comté, ash-covered Selles sur Cher, and the stinkiest of them all Boulette d'Avesnes, which is so strong, it has its own separate container.

The good thing is, should you choose to bring one home with you, no matter where you're going, you'll be assured of an empty seat next to you!

See our slideshow of Paris Foodie Favorites.

David Lebovitz writes a very lively food and Paris travel blog

Find Airline Tickets on Yahoo Travel»