 |
The Draw
• The end of the Earth: vast expanses of untamed land, lakes and glaciers.
• The ultimate adventure travel destination with incredible trekking, hiking, fishing and downhill and cross-country skiing, along with luxurious outfitters and fine dining.
• The jumping-off point for all cruises to Antarctica, southern Patagonia itself boasts some of the world's best fjord excursions.
The Scene
Spanning two countries and an immense swath of land with few inhabitants, Patagonia is not easily delineated. The Argentinean side is definitely more sophisticated, with better food, dining and service overall. The Chilean side is wilder, poorer and less European. However, both Argentinean and Chilean Patagonia boast some of the world's most secluded mountain lodges, some reachable only by floatplanes. To get the best taste of Patagonia you need time; getting around isn't easy. If you want to get a quick Patagonia fix, stick to one country. Three days in El Calafate give you the quickest Patagonian experience, with a daylong trek along the huge Perito Moreno glacier. Three weeks will give you time to cross the border and explore both countries.
To Be Seen
• Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, Chile, has been recently declared a World Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO and is almost 600,000 acres in size. Its jagged peaks can reach up to more than 9,000 feet. Breathtaking trails wind around glaciers, lakes and valleys. Multiday hiking and horseback riding trips are well organized by serious outfitters.
• Parque Nacional Los Glaceries and Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina, is slightly less remote than the Chilean park above. A three-hour flight south from Buenos Aires and then a two-hour drive bring you to this gigantic glacier measuring almost 15,000 feet wide. If you're not into taking a multiday ice trek, you can think of spending a few days at a remote Patagonian estancia, a working ranch with excellent accommodations.
• Peninsula Valdes and Punta Tombo, Argentina, boast some of the best wildlife viewing outside of the Galapagos. Off the Valdes coast, southern whales come to mate every year from April to December. A little farther south at Punta Tombo is where a million Magellan penguins come to mate every fall.
For the VIP
• Do as Ted Turner does and forget hotels. You'll want to book for yourself an estancia that comes completely staffed, along with mountain cross-country skiing, horseback riding or fly-fishing guides, depending on the season and your interest.
• Charter a light plane to get to remote parts of southern Patagonia and around Cape Horn.
• Forget the cruise ships and charter a yacht for your own cruise around the fjords and glaciers of Tierra del Fuego.
Overrated
The Chilean side in general. With the same scenery, why opt for the side that has bland food, less than efficient service and less elegant accommodations throughout?
Underrated
El Calafate, Argentina. This charming little town is the gateway to the Perito Moreno Glacier and a delightful place for a home base. In addition to some good shopping, it boasts excellent hotels, great restaurants and a very friendly, laid-back vibe. Most visitors come for a speedy stopover, rarely spending more than a night here. It's a great place, however, to kick back for a few days and bask in Argentina's warm hospitality.
Don't Miss
The sunrise hitting the Perito Moreno Glacier is an unforgettable explosion of light and color.
When to Go
The wind stops howling and the snow stops falling for a relatively brief season—basically, mid-October to early April. November and March are the best months to visit.
Page 1 of 1
