PRICE:
Frommer's Highly Recommended

In a historic building in the Barri Gòtic, 3 blocks from the harborfront, Agut epitomizes the bohemian atmosphere surrounding this gritty area. For three-quarters of a century, this has been a family-run business, with María Agut García the current reigning empress. (Don't confuse Agut with the more famous Agut d'Avignon nearby.) The aura is evokes the 1940s and 1950s, with a cozy little bar to the right as you enter. Paintings on the walls are from well-known Catalan artists from the mid-20th century. Begin with mil hojas de botifarra amb zets (layers of pastry filled with Catalan sausage and mushrooms), or the terrine de albergines amb fortmage de cabra (terrine of eggplant with goat cheese gratinée). One of our favorite dishes is soufle de rape amb gambes (soufflé of monkfish with shrimp). For gastronomes only, try the pie de cerdo relleno con foie amb truffles (pork feet stuffed with duck liver and truffles). Or if you are ravenous, attempt the chuletón de buey (loin of ox) for two, which comes thick and juicy and accompanied by a mixture of fresh vegetables. For dessert, if you order sortido, you'll get a combination plate with an assortment of the small homemade cakes of the house.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Barcelona, 3rd Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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