PRICE:
Frommer's Very Highly Recommended

Both casual neighborhood place and culinary travelogue, Oleana occupies a cozy space outside Inman Square and another one close to my heart. The wonderful food and welcoming atmosphere make it one of the best restaurants in the Boston area. The seasonal menu, which features cuisine typical of and inspired by the Mediterranean -- not just the usual suspects, either; Turkey and Armenia figure prominently -- relies on fresh ingredients and chef and co-owner Ana (short for Oleana) Sortun's signature unusual flavors. Tempting aromas signal the arrival of Moroccan-spiced grouper, which might land next to a plate of succulent lemon chicken; poultry is often the dull option on even the most adventuresome menu, but here it's a match for the most exotic dishes. Even better is spicy tuna, in a peppery sauce that trades intense heat for intense flavor, a perfect match for the meaty fish. Portions are generous, vegetarians are happy, and the dessert menu is heavy on house-made ice cream. My only caveat is that at busy times, the servers tend to fall behind. In warm weather, there's seating on the peaceful patio -- and it can't be reserved, so try to eat early.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Boston 2009, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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