PRICE:
Frommer's Exceptional

Yes, Arun's is a Thai restaurant, but it's in a whole different league from the casual noodle shops and takeout spots scattered around the city. Here, chef/owner Arun Sampanthavivat prepares a refined version of traditional Thai cuisine, authentic and flavorful but not palate-scorching. The only downside is its out-of-the-way location. You can get here by public transportation, but I recommend a taxi at night when the bus schedules are less reliable. The 12-course chef's menu is your only option here, and different tables receive different dishes on a given night. This sequential banquet begins with degustation-style appetizers followed by four family-style entrees and two desserts. You might see courses of various delicate dumplings accented with edible, carved dough flowers; an alchemist's Thai salad of bitter greens and peanuts with green papaya, tomatoes, chiles, and sticky rice; and a medley of clever curries, including a surprisingly delightful sea-bass-and-cabbage sour curry. When classic dishes appear, such as pad thai, they're always above the norm. What really sets Arun's apart is the extremely personal service; dishes are customized for each group's preferences, and if members of a party have different tolerances for spicy food, the staff will provide variations for all taste buds. The menu is paired with an award-winning wine list.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Chicago 2009, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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