PRICE:
Frommer's Very Highly Recommended

In one lofty, airy space, this River North hot spot combines wine, food, and retail in a successful, wine-centric concept. You can swirl, sniff, and snack in the Tavern wine bar; sample a tasting menu of artisinal cheeses at the Cheese Bar; or settle down at the Cellar for a full meal of American bistro fare, where a list of higher-end wines by the bottle is available. (Despite the name, the Cellar is not a dark basement room; it's a contemporary space toward the back of the restaurant.) Bin 36 manages to be both upscale and relaxed. The restaurant is certainly serious about wine and cheese, but you're not expected to be an expert -- this is a place where you're encouraged to experiment. The menu includes two or three suggested wines for every dish, all of which are available by the glass -- and you won't go wrong by following the menu's suggestions. "Small plates" available at the Tavern include shiitake spring rolls, steamed mussels, and a selection of homemade pâtés, along with a few basic full-portion entrees (hamburgers, roast chicken, ahi tuna). You can also have fun ordering creative "wine flights," small glasses organized around a theme (Italian, Australian, and so on). The Cellar menu focuses on upscale American dishes, including a variety of seafood, seared venison, and braised pork shank. The food-wine pairings continue on the dessert menu; a recommended sherry along with a slice of gingerbread-pear cake here one evening was a delight.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Chicago 2009, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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