PRICE:
Frommer's Very Highly Recommended

You can't miss this place, thanks to the huge, glowing yellow-orange sign out front. At first glimpse, the menu seems like a gimmick: Latin American ceviche paired with sushi? But it's based on a real culinary tradition. In the early 20th century, Japanese immigrants moved to Peru and Brazil in search of work, eventually combining their native cuisine with South American dishes. SushiSamba takes the concept and runs with it, creating a theatrical experience that's backed up by very solid technique. SushiSamba's dramatic dining room comes courtesy of hip hospitality designer David Rockwell (Nobu, Vong, various W hotels). Tables are scattered on different levels, some in a sunken red "conversation pit," others up on a balcony along one wall. Beaded curtains hang from the ceiling in the middle of the room, and the bathrooms are set in a bamboo-filled "garden." But does the food measure up? Absolutely. There's something here for everyone, making it a good choice for groups (even those who don't eat raw fish). The most talked-about appetizer is the sawagani, tiny river crabs that are fried and eaten whole -- shell and all. (Our waiter referred to them jokingly as "Japanese nachos.") I'd recommend trying at least one of the creative "samba rolls," which combine the traditional sticky-rice-and-seaweed wrapping with unexpected fillings. The El Topo, a mix of salmon, jalapeño pepper, fresh melted mozzarella, and crispy onions, tastes better than it sounds; also worth trying is the Samba Rio roll, with guava-glazed short ribs and sweet pepper. If you'd prefer something more straightforward, Surf & Turf matches seared rare tuna and a tender beef filet on a bed of carrot-and-ginger purée. The red snapper, served whole (but deboned), is livened up with an aromatic red-curry sauce and coconut rice. Special sampler plates, offered from noon to 5pm for $20, are a good option if you're looking for a nontraditional business lunch. There's also a Brazilian-themed brunch on Sunday, complete with samba music, and an outdoor terrace on the second floor that's a popular late-night posing spot in the summer.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Chicago 2009, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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