PRICE:
Frommer's Highly Recommended

This spic-and-span, well-managed bastion of Danish charm has an unpretentious elegance that's admired throughout the capital. A now-legendary matriarch named Karen Marguerita Krog established it in 1854 as a tavern for sailors. As the tavern's reputation grew, aristocrats, artists, and members of the Danish royal family came to dine. Today a tastefully gentrified version of the original beef hash is still served. Antique ship models decorate two glistening white dining rooms, and in summer, service spills onto the tables on the outdoor terraces. The food is excellent, but be prepared for a long experience here, as the staff tends to move politely but slowly through the service rituals, sometimes making meals here more lengthy and drawn out than you might have wanted. The selection of dishes takes you back to the way Danes ate in the 1950s, and that's not meant as a put-down by us. Danes like their own version of soul food. In this case it means fried platters of herring or Danish fish cakes with mustard sauce and minced beet root. The sugar-marinated salmon with a mustard cream sauce remains one of the delights of the Danish kitchen, as does a "symphony" of fish with saffron sauce and new potatoes. You might order as a starter another classic: herb-flavored tartare of salmon.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Denmark, 6th Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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