PRICE:
Frommer's Highly Recommended

With a name like Sommelier, you expect some of Copenhagen's finest wine to be served here, and you're not disappointed. The good news is that many of the best selections are sold by the glass. The restaurant, which opened in 1997, offers more than 850 different bottles, and, as might be predicted, the sommelier here is one of the sharpest in the business. Chef Francis Cardenau's cuisine is inspired, especially his luncheon and dinner set menus, which are created fresh every day depending "on whatever inspiration the market provides." His cooking is characterized by virtuoso presentations such as foie gras poached in consommé with Sauternes gelée as a starter. Habitués find his main courses "seductive," and we agree, especially when we sample such dishes as a filet and loin of roast suckling pig with a velouté of fresh morels. The chef never overextends himself or prepares dishes too elaborate. A savory stuffed rabbit appears frequently on the menu, or else you may want to sample the poisson du jour, or fish of the day. For our kroner, the chef still makes the best crème brûlée in town. Perhaps it's putting gilt on the lily, but he also serves it with marinated melon and a velvety vanilla ice cream.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Denmark, 6th Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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