PRICE:
Frommer's Exceptional

Upon entering this restaurant (look for the shrine to the kitchen god at the entrance), you immediately feel as if you've stepped back a couple of decades to a Hong Kong that has all but vanished. The decor is outdated and, unless you're a regular, the waiters are indifferent. Yet for almost 40 years this has remained the place to go for exotic dishes, including shark's fin (the obvious number-one choice, with 12 different renditions listed on the menu, starting with shark's fin with crabmeat or shredded chicken for HK$350/US$45/£23), bird's nest, and abalone, as well as more down-to-earth dishes such as fried crispy chicken and pan-fried lobster bars (the spicy XO sauce on every table is a great condiment). If you're not careful, you could end up spending a small fortune, but whatever you order it's apt to be memorable. Indeed, some Hong Kong old-timers swear this restaurant serves the best Cantonese food in the world. Another branch is in Wan Chai at 35-45 Johnston Rd. (tel. 852/2866 0663; MTR: Wan Chai), with the same hours.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Hong Kong, 10th Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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