PRICE:
Frommer's Exceptional

Bistro Moderne [STSTST] FRENCH -- If I'm going to eat French food in Houston, I'm going to eat it here. Luxury hotels are vying with each other to lure talented chefs to Houston, making for great dining choices. In this case, the Hotel Derek persuaded a top French chef, Philippe Schmit, to come and employ his energies to create wonderful dishes and present them in surroundings that are sleek, modern, understated, and comfortable. The main dining area is in a long gallery just beyond an inviting bar. Perhaps the best-known dish is the delicious "crab bomb" made much the same way as the dessert bombe, with a rounded dome but made with an avocado purée instead of ice cream. Except for the bits of cilantro on the plate, it had all the appearance of a dessert with a glossy finish and a wonderful green color, more like mint than avocado. The main courses include both original and standards. The shrimp with saffron risotto with squid ink sauce was delicious. There's a lovely pork stuffed with apricots. If some of your party are conservative eaters, this place is a good choice, with sirloin, filet mignon, and roast chicken on the menu. The dessert menu would also please just about anyone, with its mix of retro and nouveau choices.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Texas, 4th Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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